I'm only powering one set of brakes, which won't pull any more than 8-9A at max, so it should be sufficient. It's a 40A circuit for a module that powers the lighting circuits, which is more than a little overkill. I ended up putting it all back together and splicing a wire off the power feed to the trailer tow module. I removed all the fuses and took off the top cover, but couldn't find an easy way to tap into one of the open slots. ![]() I mounted the plug so the door opens to the driver's side to avoid clearance issues with the lower valence.įirst up was power, which I originally tried to pull from the fuse box. Here's how I mounted it, no trimming of the factory bracket: I went with M10-32 machine screws and nylock nuts, and an M12 self-tapping screw for additional support at the top. ![]() It came with the bracket, plug, and harness, but surprisingly no nuts or bolts to mount the bracket.įirst up was mounting the plug and the bracket. Pollak is the OEM supplier for Ford and GM, and the part I received is identical to what was used for decades on new pickup trucks and SUVs. I've used these in the past and haven't been impressed with the quality. I chose the Pollak 11-898 plug kit for this over the 4-to-7 pin conversion kits that are available from Curt and Reese. Overall it took me about five hours to figure things out as I went, so I figured I'd post some photos for anyone else who may be considering the same. ![]() So I added the 7-pin plug to handle both needs, just like I have on other vehicles in the past. I have two trailers that require it for different reasons the boat needs a reverse circuit to deactivate the surge brakes, and the utility trailer needs power for the brakes.
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